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The Art of the Tart: Savory and Sweet, by Tamasin Day-Lewis
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Amazon.com Review
Tamasin Day-Lewis writes so beautifully, so eloquently, and so descriptively that it's almost impossible to choose which of her exceptional, delectable tarts to begin with. Her tone is warm, friendly, and generous, and her attitude towards food and cooking will make you nod and smile and want to read this cookbook aloud to anyone who'll listen. She laments that the "current speed-addicted climate" has pushed so many of us to give up cooking from scratch. We have been convinced to make questionably nutritious fast food instead of relishing the relaxation, pleasure, enjoyment of not just preparing good food, but of eating it in the way it is meant to be eaten--by savoring it slowly. Early childhood memories of standing on a kitchen chair, cuffs covered with flour, making her first tarts, and then impatiently biting into a hot jam tart and the sweetly searing pain that results inspired Day-Lewis to write this book. Tarts, she argues, are superior fast food. With practice, the dough can be made quickly and in batches large enough that there's no need to make the dough every time. Fillings can be as simple as the onions, eggs and cream necessary for the Onion Tart. And longer recipes are just longer, not any more complicated or difficult to follow. "Anyone reading this book," says Day-Lewis, "should not doubt his or her ability to achieve every one of the recipes." She assumes "basic skills and competence," and a bit of curiosity. Many of these recipes are remakes of old favorites, but because Day-Lewis is writing in the U.K. and Ireland, most of those old favorites are brand new in America. The Leek, Potato, and Oatmeal Tart is a substantial cold-weather dish made with oatmeal crust filled with garlic, leeks, potatoes, and cheddar. Treacle Tart is "gloopy, gooky, toothachingly sweet," best served with "a solid spoonful of clotted cream slipping deliquescent from the slice, turning buttery at the edges as it slides." How can anyone read that and not start checking the kitchen for ingredients? Divided by the chapters "Savory Tarts," "Sweet Tarts," and "Other People's Tarts" (try Nigel Slater's Broccoli, Blue Cheese, and Crème Fraiche Tart and Richard Corrigan's Banana Tart), the book is sprinkled with vibrant color photographs of lusciousness such as the Peach, Vanilla, and Amaretti Tarte Tatin ("amber-hued ... speckled with vanilla and sticky with caramel") and the bright yellow Corn and Scallion Tart with a Polenta Crust. Day-Lewis is inventive, as is evident with recipes such as Monkfish Tart with Bearnaise, Tomato, Goat's Camembert, and Herb Tart; Rhubarb, Honey, and Saffron Tart; and Brûléed Black Currant or Blueberry Tart. If your taste buds (or those of your audience) are less adventurous, you can start with Asparagus Tart, Potato, Garlic, and Parsley Torte, or Quiche Lorraine. And no one will ever turn down a "state-of-the-art" Lemon Tart, a Strawberry Tart ("voluptuous ... and glazed to gloopy perfection"), or Simon Hopkinson's Chocolate Tart ("If there is a heaven, this is it," says Day-Lewis). Whatever your time frame, your kitchen comfort level, or your palate, Day-Lewis will leave you with your cuffs in flour, composing a thank-you note in your head to this most delightful author. --Leora Y. Bloom
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From Publishers Weekly
Tarts, when done well, are gorgeous creationsDtheir fillings displayed in buttery crust like jewels shown on velvet. Day-Lewis (The English Woman's Kitchen; West of Ireland Summers: A Cookbook) does not disappoint; in addition to delectable recipes and luxurious photos, her prose itself is exquisite. Even the most jaded palate might be tempted with her description of the much-maligned Quiche Lorraine "with a buttery pastry and an unctuously creamy, bacony, barely wobbling interior." These tarts are rich (lots of butter, cream and eggs), simple and wholesome, prepared in straightforward ways with uncomplicated steps. As Day-Lewis explains, they are not "state-of-the-art, designer-dream, fashionable" fare (even if she tells us that Julia Roberts loves the Treacle Tart), but rather "foods to console and please on the highest order." The favorite tarts of well-known chefs appear regularly throughout the pages, tweaked and appropriately credited. Classics such as Onion Tart, Plain Apple Tart and that English favorite, Bakewell Tart, coexist with more flamboyant fare, such as Fennel, Taleggio and Cardamom Tart, Mjuk Mandeltarta (soft almond tart) and a "beauteous, sluttish, fall of the Roman Empire" Roast Fig and Honey Tart with Cointreau. With quiet sophistication, Day-Lewis presents a beautiful and useful book to savor on many levels. Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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Product details
Hardcover: 144 pages
Publisher: Random House; 1 edition (March 6, 2001)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0375504923
ISBN-13: 978-0375504921
Product Dimensions:
7.7 x 0.7 x 9.8 inches
Shipping Weight: 1.6 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.0 out of 5 stars
14 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#1,195,478 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
This little book is a treasure. I have her companion book, Tarts with Tops On, also, and they are both wonderful. She has GREAT tart recipes that seem to work for me every time. I get rave reviews whenever I make one of her tarts. Both savory (my favorite) and sweet are represented, and even though she's from England, if you live near a reasonably stocked grocery store, you should have no problem getting the ingredients. I own lots of pie and tart books and these two are some of my favorites. BUY IT....you'll be so happy you did, and so will all who eat from it!
The book is in good condition, however I was disappointed in the content.
Wonderful!
In this day of working away from home, shopping after work and fixing a meal on the run, THE ART OF THE TART is a gift. I discovered this book in the Washington Post Food section, which seems to be dedicated to folks like me who don't want to restort to scambled eggs, oatmeal, or fast food night after night. How wonderful to discover there are elegant dishes one can fix relatively quickly, and in most cases healthier than the fast food fix.Day-Lewis is apparently well established in England as a food expert and has written articles for Conde-Nast and House and Garden. If you missed her in these other forms, this is a good place to start. Some of her tarts are meals, such as the 'Porcini Mushroom and Red Onion' tart or the 'Scallop, Artichoke, and Smoked Bacon' tart. Other tarts are for dessert, such as 'A Tatin of Apricots Stuffed with Almond Paste' or 'Apple Crumble Tart.' Not all tarts come in the same wrapper. While some tarts have a traditional flaky crust, others have a crust of polenta such as the 'Corn and Scallion Tart' or 'George Morley's Leek Tart' which has a cheese pastry crust. Some of the recipes Day-Lewis includes are her own, such as the 'Spinach and Anchovy' tart or the 'Asparagus' tart, and others are from friends.There are plenty of plain tarts, and tarts with too much cholesterol, but there is a tart for everyone. According to the Washington Post, Ms Day-Lewis is the sister of Daniel. Such a talented family.
`The Art of the Tart' and `Tarts With Tops On' by noted English culinary writer, Tamasin Day-Lewis both have the outward appearance of books on the express line to the discount table. And, while many good books have suffered that fate, that appearance should not be held against these two volumes. It is important to distinguish this book from the excellent volumes on general pastry making such as Rose Levy Beranbaum's `The Pie and Pastry Bible' or Nick Malgieri's `Perfect Pastry' or Flo Brakker's `The Simple Art of Perfect Baking, or Gayle Ortiz' `The Village Baker's Wife'. It is also playing in a different league than the excellent `Mes Tartes' by Christine Ferber. All of these spend many pages on the ins and outs of pastry technique. Ms. Ferber's volume is especially interesting if you are devoted to the French approach to pastry, which is just a bit different than what you will get from the American experts.When I first browsed through Ms. Day-Lewis' books, the absence of the heavy concentration on technique and the many familiar names of classic tart and pie recipes had me discounting the books as not worth my attention. The opening tart with a top on was nothing more than a classic chicken potpie that I have made following better instructions from James Beard.The first thing that began redeeming the books in my eyes was the quality of the writing. Ms. Day-Lewis has a way with phrases that seems to owe more than a little from the writing style of M.F.K. Fisher, although the writer to which she seems to pay the greatest homage is Jane Grigson. In spite of a few misstatements such as the notion that pastry making was a science, `but not an exact science', her general observations are quite a pleasure to read and make me want to read more of her books.Both books include chapters on `other people's recipes', and some of the most interesting material is in these chapters. Some of the borrowing is from Nigel Slater who is a writer like Day-Lewis and unlike Nigella Lawson and Jamie Oliver, whose works have not made a very big impression on this side of the pond. Others are attributed to Claudia Roden, who has made a big splash over here. Many others are attributed to friends and relatives. Regardless of the source, all these recipes are pretty far removed from your garden-variety tomato tart. Some recipes such as Michel Roux's Tourte au Jambon et Tomme de Pyrenees require ingredients such as black truffles and hard Pyrenees sheep's milk cheese which are just a bit to dear or too much trouble to acquire. Others in this chapter are both very simple and very fetching. Two that caught my eye were Nigel Slater's Stilton, Onion, and Potato "Frying Pan" pie and Deborah's Luxury Meat Loaf Pie. Both recipes are small variations on very common dishes, but the small improvements are worth a bundle of raves at the dinner table.The next chapter of recipes for pies covers eight variations on apple pie. Aside from the plain vanilla apple pie, all were pretty unusual, but certainly not difficult. I did miss a recipe for Tart Tatin, but I suspect I probably already have five or six recipes for this classic on my shelves already. Another reason the Tart Tatin does not appear with these apple pies is because the first book already includes nine recipes for lidless apple tarts, including the famous Tatin dessert. The first book also includes a perfect recipe for entertaining with an English theme, a treacle tart.The next recipe chapter of pie recipes covers classic American pies. Among these eleven recipes are peach pie, pecan pie, blueberry pie, pumpkin pie, and key lime pie, but no Pennsylvania Dutch molasses cake, which of course is much more of a pie than a cake.Among the recipes for sweet pies, there are a few with unusual ingredients such as gooseberries and a few which simply did not appeal to me such as the raspberry ice cream pie, which I considered a misnomer, as the filling was not a true churned ice cream but more like a simple frozen custard.If your cookbook collecting leans toward those that look good and read well, then these books are for you. They are also very interesting if you have a special attraction to baking tarts and pies, and already have the basic techniques securely under your belt. If you are a novice with pastry, then I suggest you take a by on these and check out the four titles I cited at the beginning of the review.I will note that for the very nice binding, photography, and the build-in page marking ribbon, these books are very reasonably priced, which make them even more attractive if you are fond of attractive culinary books.If you are always on the lookout for unusual pie and tart recipes, don't give it another thought and put in your order for these lovelies.
Seven years ago, I had an onion tart in New York that was so good I've been trying to replicate it ever since. I bought the book based on its beautiful graphics and what looked like easy-to-follow recipes, including one for an onion tart.I invited friends over a couple of weeks ago and made the onion tart for the first time. The custard came out voluminous; I used about half of what the recipe called for. Otherwise, it was absolutely delicious. I've started making other recipes and they're turning out just as well.The really impressive thing, though, was the selection of dough recipes in the back. I'm not a baker and the first time I made dough according to her directions it turned out flaky and delicious! She has a rare talent for explaining baking. And, to boot, it didn't take very long or require expensive or hard-to-find ingredients.I recommend the book whole-heartedly, but please experiment with the ingredients and quantities.
I just wish there were pictures for all the tarts. I have made the treacle, flamiche, chocolate apricot, Simon Hopkinson's chocolate, lemon (so many times the page is sticky!!), tart tartin, apricot, mjuk toscakaka and tomato saffron. I love making them! The recipes are all delicious (so far) and come out beautifully. It's a very beautiful book. My favorites are the lemon and the chocolate apricot. Next up is the banana!! Or maybe the blue cheese with red onion marmalade....Yummmmm!
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